Laird Hamilton on near-death wipeouts, Jaws, and riding the “unrideable” | Full Interview
Laird Hamilton reflects on his journey from a bullied, rebellious child in Hawaii to a pioneering big wave surfer, highlighting how early trauma and defiance shaped his resilience.summaryLaird overcame self-destructive behaviors (drinking two bottles of wine nightly) by recognizing they stemmed from not being okay with himself, leading to a complete lifestyle overhaul including quitting alcohol.takeaway
